dimanche 20 mars 2011

The Rule of Three

Alright folks, seeing as how it's been a while since my last entry and a lot has happened, I am going to make this entry as efficient as possible.  Fairy tales are built on this principle, so why can't my life be too? The Rule of Three.  Three major cities (Amsterdam, Berlin, and Paris).  Three major events from each location.  Ready? Set! Enjoy!

Amsterdam:

1.  Traveling by bus: Anna and I traveled from Paris to Amsterdam by bus last weekend.  We left Saturday morning and it took us about nine hours to get there.  Mistake? Not at all.  I actually had a rather pleasant time.  We drove through cities such as Brussels (not so beautiful), Antwerp (more beautiful), and Rotterdam (most beautiful!) along the way, and as we made our approach to Amsterdam, we passed lots of fields with sheep and giant old windmills.  Unfortunately, I did not capture a picture of one of these windmills, but I assure you, they were quite adorable, and quite impressive.  The only real negative to the trip up was a car crash that we witnessed right next to the bus.  A man lost control of his car and crashed into the median and bounced around the road back towards the bus.  It was extremely shocking, but what made it even more bizarre was that the bus didn't stop, and we literally just left him behind with his airbag in his face like it didn't matter.  I was a little unsettled by that event.
The journey back to Paris was also by bus and also nine hours.  We got to the bus station a little early so that we could finish eating our Wok to Wok dinners (really good Chinese fast food), and it's a good thing we got there when we did! The man at the ticket counter informed us that the bus was leaving earlier because it was overbooked and they needed to leave someone behind! Glad it was not one of us.  Other than that, the ride home was perfectly fine too.  I slept almost the entire way (10:30pm-6am).  When we got back to Paris, Anna and I walked up to Sacré Coeur to watch the sun rise over the city.  It was more of a general brightening instead of a magnificent sunrise, but it was definitely an incredible way to end the trip.


2.  Couchsurfing! Yes.  Anna and I went to Amsterdam, met up with someone we had only ever communicated with over the internet, and slept on his couch.  Mistake? Not at all! Yosef, our host, was amazing, and so friendly.  We brought him some macarons from our favorite place for macarons and chocolates in the Marais (Maison Larnicole) as a thank you for hosting us.  By the time we got to Amsterdam, they were a colorful crumbly crushed mess.  We assured him that they would taste good anyway :) He took us on a walking tour of the city as soon as we got into town, and we saw more of Amsterdam in about 3 hours than we ever would have seen by ourselves in a whole day! He took us to the major squares (called "plein" in Dutch), we ate at his favorite Thai restaurant for dinner, and walked through the Red Light District where the canal was swimming with sleeping swans.  Extremely poetic.  Anna's theory is as follows: at night the swans sleep and their souls become prostitutes.  He also showed us the amazing public library, complete with a restaurant and a cafeteria, as well as an entire floor devoted to DVDs!  As we walked around, we talked about everything from politics to cultural stereotypes.  Anna and I explained that, in America, politics is one of the three topics to be avoided, and he told us that he and his friends always talk about politics and religion very openly.  For hours even!  I think the key is that they don't make it a personal discussion, unlike all political discussions I've been a party to in America.  After being reminded by Yosef that it is completely possible to have a political/religious discussion without making it super personal, all I want to say is, "Shame on us."


3.  Thoughts about the city: I love Amsterdam.  It is a relatively small city, but chock full of character.  It is very old and very crooked; hardly any of the houses stand exactly straight because the land is so swampy.  There is a myriad of bridges that span the little canals that cut through the city about every two blocks or so.  There are tons of museums, but Anna and I only went to two of them because there are no student rates :( We went to the Van Gogh museum first, then the Anne Frank house.  There was also a Picasso exhibition in the Van Gogh museum, and that was pretty fascinating.  I loved the Van Gogh museum.  There was so much to see, and they incorporated other artists like Monet, so you'd be walking along and then, all of a sudden, this distinct style pops out at you and you're like, "WHOA! Oh hey, Monet.  I like you.  I like you a lot."  The Anne Frank house/museum was incredible.  It is not furnished, but they have filled it with information and videos of interviews with people like Miep Gies, Hannah Goslar, and Otto Frank.  The most chilling video definitely came from her father, Otto.  He expressed that he always felt he knew Anne well, but after reading her diary and seeing the depth that she possessed, he was convinced that no parent ever really knows their child.  It was heartbreaking to hear.  After the Anne Frank house, we set out on the canal for a one hour boat tour with a wonderful guide who explained to us the important buildings and structures we were passing (like the three story parking deck for bicycles at the train station to accommodate the almost strictly biking culture that is unique to this city).


Overall, after only a little over 24 hours in Amsterdam, I was extremely happy with the trip and would do it all over again in a heartbeat.


Walking around after we arrived, colorful lights and a bike taxi.

Lost and Found in Vogel Park

I AMsterdam :)

Fun fact from Yosef: 
The hooks at the tops of the houses are used for lifting large objects 
so that they can be moved into the apartments through the windows.
Some of the older apartments have these from when they were storage houses, 
and large loads needed to be lifted into them from the boats in the canal.

Me on a bridge, surrounded by bikes.

Sunset on the canal during our boat tour.

Berlin:

1.  My hosts: were the best that I could have ever hoped for! I stayed with the extended family of my good friend, Patrick, who I know from high school in Atlanta.  He is originally from Germany and his father's twin brother lives in Berlin with his family.  Anne, Patrick's cousin, is about to finish the German equivalent of high school, and her boyfriend, Sebi, who is also a good friend of Patrick's, was visiting this weekend as well.  I know Sebi from when he came to stay with me in DC while he and Patrick were making their way around the U.S. as part of their summer vacation.  Follow? Haha!  It sounds complicated, but with the hospitality that the Berlin Haken's showed me this weekend, it all became very simple.  They welcomed me into their home, gave me a whole room to myself (their youngest, Finn, is currently studying for a year in Norcross, GA, where I went to high school), fed me, and showed me around the city.  We had a long, European, post-dinner discussion like I'm used to having at my best friend Maya's house.  I haven't gotten that so far from my host family here in Paris, and I was so happy to just sit and relax at the end of our dinner last night and discuss the oddities of American English, share my travel plans for after my program, and learn some key words and phrases in German.  I saw the huge moon last night thanks to a heads up from Anne's mother.  We went out to a bridge on the canal near their house and looked at it over the water.  I tried desperately to hear the difference between the 'u' and 'ü' vowel sounds as they taught me to say words in German.  I saw the Reichstag, Brandenburg Tor, Jewish Memorial, Potsdamer Platz, Alexanderplatz, Hackescher markt, and the neighborhood of Kreuzberg (where Anne and her family live) thanks to them.

2.  Food:  Also thanks to my hosts, I had some legit German cuisine while I was there.  First there was the currywurst (curry sausage), then döner kebab, and finally...SCHNITZEL!  The weinerschnitzel was by far my favorite thing that I ate there because we made it ourselves.  We were going to go out, but we didn't make a reservation in time.  I wouldn't trade our homemade schnitzel for anything! It was wonderful because I got to see how it was made, and now I can make it at home when I'm missing my time in Germany.  It's rather simple, and tastes delicious.
The one non-German food that I had while in Berlin was...McDo.  I've been wanting to go to a McDonald's in Europe ever since I arrived to see if it is any different.  I've heard from several people that it is better over here.  It certainly has a better reputation than in the U.S.! Well, I had a cheeseburger and french fries, and guess what? It. is. the. same.  I'm not going to lie, I was disappointed.  I expected angels to start singing and the skies to open up when I took my first bite of hamburger.  This did not happen.  In fact, the opposite happened.  If anything, the angels and the sky were upset with me for having broken my 7 year stint of no McDonald's just to try it in a different country.  Let's just say I won't be going out of my way to dine at a McDo for the rest of my time in Europe...or for the rest of my time on Earth, for that matter.

3.  Thoughts about the city: Berlin is a very big city! I most definitely did not see it all, but I felt like I covered so much ground.  It is also a very new city compared to most other European cities, so it does not have that old architectural heritage you'll find in Amsterdam (with the hooks) or Paris (Haussemann).  Most of the buildings are of the hasty style from the 60s-80s, and every building, no matter how nice or pretty it is, has graffiti on it.  Graffiti is legal in Germany, so you get a lot of really amazing artwork, but you also get a ton of scribbles.  While that does not make the city look very clean, it does make it very colorful, and there is some merit to that (especially when it's a cold, grey, rainy day like Friday was).  Saturday was a beautiful sunny day with clear skies.  We visited areas that were less about monuments, and more local spots.  This is when we walked along the canal near Anne's house, and where we had the best döner kebab in Berlin (according to Anne and Sebi--and I believe them!).  I like the German people for their friendliness (and their recycling habits) better than the French with their attitudes, but I am glad that I live in Paris.  I find Paris to be more put-together looking (which is very much my style), and I understand the language.  As I heard more and more German, I started to catch on.  I think that I could definitely learn German if I stayed there for a few months.  Even over a week I'm sure I would make a lot of progress since after only two days my comprehension was picking up.  French is a lot easier for me though, considering that I've been studying it somewhat consistently for about eight years now.  I would go back to Germany, and Berlin, again though.  I'd like to spend more time there, if not to see more of the country, then to spend more time with the Haken's--they truly made my visit to the city memorable, and I am extremely grateful to them.

A piece of the Berlin Wall in Potsdamer Platz

Sebi and me in front of the Reichstag 

Brandenburg Tor

Anne and me in front of the museum for modern art

Currywurst

Alexanderplatz!

Enjoying the sun outside of the Ampelmann store at Hackescher markt.

Cooking the schnitzel

My German lessons from Sebi :)

Paris:

1.  National Archives: my new favorite museum that I've been to so far in Paris! I saw Molière's marriage contract, the Edict of Nantes, and Marie Antoinette's last letter (written to her sister from prison).  There was also a huge expo on the Templar Nights!!! Hundreds of pages of testimonies in the trials of the Templars, and records that they kept of their treasures, etc.  Aaaand, there was a expo on assassination attempts throughout history, with all the evidence, costumes, plans, guns, and so on.  It is essentially a history nerd's paradise.


2.  Jour du Macaron: Today, when I arrived back from Berlin around 10:00, I met my friends over at the Passy metro stop (where the bridge from Inception is).  From there, we made a tour of the city, collecting three macarons at each Pierre Hermé store (of which there are seven), ending the day with a total of 21 macarons each!!! And do you know how much I spent for all these delicious treats? Under 5 euro.  That's right, I basically stole all of those macarons.  But really, there was a fundraiser going on and you'd give a donation at each store in exchange for three macarons of your choice.  Clearly, being a student and only having had a little bit of change left in my wallet, I donated very little at each store.  At the end of the day, I came home with such flavors as "rose," "pistachio," "chocolate," "vanilla & olive oil," "passion fruit & chocolate," and...get ready for these: "asparagus & hazelnut oil," "mint & pea," and "fig & fois gras."  Haha, yes.  These are cookies with these flavors.  I have not tried them all yet, but I have a feeling that I will like some better than others...
P.S. Fig & fois gras is actually a good macaron flavor.  Mint & pea, not so much.  Also, apparently there are pieces of green olives in the vanilla & olive oil one.  What?!? Oh, and the asparagus & hazelnut oil one was very good.  Only drawback would be the pieces of asparagus that were in it.  
I have officially ceased to think of macarons as cookies.  They are now just a vehicle for experimentation with any flavor combination you can think of.  Either that, or they decide the ingredients by spinning a wheel with every flavor known to man on it, à la Wheel of Fortune.


3.  Thoughts about the city: My newest note on cultural differences between the U.S. and France can be summed up with one word: poop.  Why poop? Because I have now stepped in it three times, that's why.  (Granted, one of those times was in Berlin...)  As I have already mentioned, Parisians love their dogs.  They dress them in little coats and carry them in their purses.  Adorable.  But the one thing they do not love about their dogs is their poop.  In fact, they dislike their dogs' poop so much, that they refuse to pick it up, despite there being a law and despite being provided plastic baggies and trash cans at little poop stations around the city.  So, since the Parisians don't want to deal with their puppies' poopies, I have to.  From sidewalk to shoe.  Yes, sidewalk.  I'm sorry, but what part of your conscience lets you watch your dog poop on the sidewalk, then lets you walk away??? Personally, I was raised with a little more of a social conscience than that.  And then it struck me: for a society that is so largely based on community and equality and fraternity and all that jazz, the Parisians have the least social consciousness that I have ever witnessed, and the sidewalk bares the brunt of this selfishness.  Planters along the sides of the sidewalks are basically huge ashtrays filled with cigarette butts.  The gutters are teeming with debris.  The sidewalks are slathered in poop.  The only reason this city is not knee deep in cigarette butts and does not smell everywhere you go (it only smells most everywhere you go) is the city clean-up crews that consistently wash the sidewalks, sweep out the gutters, and rake the planters.  This is a vicious cycle that, though it does create jobs, also makes it socially acceptable to leave excrement in highly trafficked public places! My sense of social consciousness and my shoes disapprove.
On a more funny note, I've noticed that Parisians like to give their toddlers who wear glasses the most colorful and eccentric looking frames that I have ever seen.  They're thick rimmed and brightly colored (blue, or red for example) and they tend to look like goggles!  They absolutely dominate these children's faces, and it is so cute.


And now for something completely different:


A young man with a parrot.

Édit de Nantes

Molière's signature on his marriage contract!

Beautiful ceiling in the National Archives

Vive le Jour du Macaron!
(5 are missing...it was a long day)

2 commentaires:

  1. Ah, Berlin.... I would LOVE to see it now, sans Wall. Many visits in the late 1970s, with the traffic pattern (for airplanes) going to Tempelhof Airfield taking us over East Berlin, a startling contrast to the western city. No doubt it's completely transformed, much as I found Moscow to be in 2010 as contrasted with my first visit in 1989.

    We also loved Amsterdam in the 1970s, & recall that the threat of stepping into dog poop was much higher there than anywhere else on the continent.

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  2. Berlin has come a long way since the Wall. The family I was staying with first moved there right after the wall came down and the father was telling me that it has completely transformed. Just walking through it and being able to see where the wall was, I could tell that there has been amazing amounts of construction.
    Amsterdam must have been fun in the 70's haha!

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